It was suprisingly easy to install webalizer.
apt-get install webalizer plus a cron even to run
‘webalizer’ every hour is all it took (plus setting up a virtual site in Apache to read the webalizer output).
So! If you’re interested in the stats for nodnod (and I honestly can’t think of any reason why anyone should be interested — it’s pretty much only search crawlers for traffic, right now), the webalizer stats are at stats.nodnod.net.